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Building Stairs with a Landing

Project Overview

Buliding Stairs with a Landing

Using a landing to break up a long stair run makes the stairs easier and safer to traverse. You can also build a landing to change the direction of the stair run. In either case, all sections of a stairway must be constructed with the same rises and runs throughout. Build the stairs at least 3 feet wide with either open or closed stringers on the ends-as your style determines. Stringers used as central supports must be open stringers. Install permanent bracing on posts for small stair landings to provide stability. Make treads from the same material as your decking and with the same spacing. Because exterior stair treads are deeper from front to back, they offer you a chance to adjust the width of the treads.

6 Steps

  1. FINISH DECKING FIRST
  2. MAKE LOWER-STAIR STRINGERS
  3. INSTALL CENTER STRINGERS
  4. ATTACH STRINGERS TO PAD
  5. ATTACH TOE-KICK
  1. ATTACH STRINGERS TO TOE-KICK
Show all steps »
FINISH DECKING FIRST
FINISH DECKING FIRST

Step 1

FINISH DECKING FIRST

Install and trim the decking before starting the installation of the stairs. Lay out and pour any footings needed for the landing platform and install the landing pad. Compute the rise and run of both sections of the stairs. Build the landing platform using the same techniques you would use for a deck (the platform is, in fact, a miniature deck). Install and plumb the posts, build the perimeter frame, hang joists in joint hangers, and attach the decking-with the same orientation and pattern as the deck, if possible.

MAKE LOWER-STAIR STRINGERS
MAKE LOWER-STAIR STRINGERS

Step 2

MAKE LOWER-STAIR STRINGERS

Make stringers for the lower stairs using tour earlier computations for the rise and run. Attach 2x4 cleats to the backside of the rim joist that faces the concrete pad. These cleats will support the crossbrace to which you will attach the stringers. The length of these cleats should equal the combined height of the rim joist, the unit rise, plus ½ inch (so the crosssbrace will extend beneath the stringer). Fasten the crossbrace (2x pressure-treated lumber) to the cleats with deck screws, cut the nailer to length and width from 2x pressure-treated lumber. Install a crossbrace on the upper rim joist for the upper-stair run also.

INSTALL CENTER STRINGERS
INSTALL CENTER STRINGERS

Step 3

INSTALL CENTER STRINGERS

Attach the center stringers with slopeable joist hangers. Level the tops of the stringers. Connect each outer stringer to the crossbrace with an angle bracket, making sure the tread lines are level with each other and the center stringers. Mark the location of the bottom end of each stringer on the concrete pad, making sure the spacing between stringers is consistent throughout.

ATTACH STRINGERS TO PAD
ATTACH STRINGERS TO PAD

Step 4

ATTACH STRINGERS TO PAD

Fasten an angle bracket to the pad with self-tapping masonry screws in predrilled holes. Anchor the stringers to the brackets with the nails recommended by the manufacturer. Cut treads from the same material as the decking and fasten them to the stair angles with short lag screws (or the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer). Cut stringers for the upper-stair run and mark their locations on both sides of the landing. Snap a chalk line across the landing at the marks.

ATTACH TOE-KICK
ATTACH TOE-KICK

Step 5

ATTACH TOE-KICK

Cut a toe kick (a pressure-treated 2x4) so it will fit between the stringers and attach it to the landing with its front edge on the chalk line. Cut a notch in the bottom end of the center stringer to accommodate the toe-kick. Attach each outer stringer to the upper deck with angle brackets. Install the center stringer in a slopeable joist hanger.

ATTACH STRINGERS TO TOE-KICK
ATTACH STRINGERS TO TOE-KICK

Step 6

ATTACH STRINGERS TO TOE-KICK

Drive two deck screws through each outer stringer into the toe-kick. Toenail the center stringer to the toe-kick with deck screws. Attach stair angles to the stringers as you did for the lower-stair run. Drive fasteners through the cleats and into the undersides of the treads.

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Project Details

Skill Level: Beginner

Time: 3 hours

Before you start, read this »

Due to differing conditions, tools, and individual skills, The Home Depot® assumes no responsibility for any damages, injuries suffered, or losses incurred as a result of attempting to replicate any of the home improvement ideas portrayed in this website Before beginning any home improvement project, review it thoroughly to ensure you or your contractor can finish the project and if any doubts or questions remain, consult local experts or authorities. Because codes and regulations vary greatly, you always should check with authorities to ensure that your project complies with all applicable local codes and regulations. Always read and observe all of the safety precautions provided by any tool or equipment manufacturer, and follow all accepted safety procedures.

Materials

  • Lumber
  • Fasteners
  • Spikes
  • Premix Concrete
  • Angle Brackets
  • Skewable Joist Hangers
  • Stair Cleats

Tools

  • Ratchet and Socket
  • Tape Measure
  • Line Level
  • Water Level
  • Chalk Line
  • Shovel
  • Power Auger
  • Posthole Digger
  • Maul
  • Hammer
  • Masonary Finishing Tools
  • Speed Square
  • Circular Saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Drill

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