Projects
Installing a True Comfort Radiant Floor Heating System
Project Overview
Radiant heating systems transfer heat to objects and people in a room, creating an unparalleled level of comfort while saving energy. Since nature always tends towards equilibrium, radiant heat spreads from warm surfaces to cold surfaces until a constant temperature is achieved throughout the room. Compared to traditional heating systems where warm air gathers at the ceiling, you won't need to overheat the room to feel comfortable. Our heating systems allow you to lower the ambient temperature without affecting your level of comfort, while achieving up to 28% energy savings (Source: ASHRAE (American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers)). True Comfort floor heating systems offer many more benefits. You'll enjoy a healthier environment since they are EMF-free* (electromagnetic field), do not dry the air, and do not spread dust or germs. They are silent and require no maintenance. They are compatible with most floor coverings and give you complete freedom to decorate since there are no visible parts aside from the thermostat. They can be installed in dry or wet environments. Carefully read the step-by-step installation guide and watch the DVD provided with the system, prior to proceeding with the installation, for complete details and warnings. * When installed according to the True Comfort installation manual, the recorded EMF measurement is considered insignificant (between 0.25mG and 0.5mG).
9 Steps
- Determine the location of the thermostat
- Make sure the installation surface is smooth and clean
- Verify the measurements of the area to be covered
- Plan the installation layout
- Install the cable or mat
- Install the floor probe and fish the cold lead to the connection box
- Cover the cables with mortar or self-leveling underlayment
- Test the cables integrity and connect the thermostat
- Install the floor covering
Step 1
Determine the location of the thermostat
The expanded electrical box must be installed in an accessible area within the room where the system will be installed. The connection to the box will be done via the cable's cold lead extremity (The cold lead cable is flat and black and is connected to the heated portion of the cable by a mechanical joint). Part of this cable will run inside the wall to connect to the thermostat. The mechanical joint must be installed in a groove in the sub-floor in order to be at the same level as the cable.
Step 2
Make sure the installation surface is smooth and clean
The surface must be flat, smooth and free of protruding nail and screw heads or other objects that could damage the cable. The sub-floor material used must be compatible with the mortar or the self-leveling underlayment. Refer to the adhesive manufacturer's user guide or contact the manufacturer for additional information. To ensure maximum adhesion of the gauges, use a vacuum cleaner to eliminate all dust residue and then wash the surface with a damp sponge. NOTE: When installing on a concrete slab we recommend that all adjoining rooms supported by this slab also be equipped with a True Comfort floor heating system in order to avoid heat loss along the perimeter. The concrete slab must be insulated to avoid heat loss from below.
Step 3
Verify the measurements of the area to be covered
Measure the surface area of the room where the cable will be installed. It is important to verify the label on the box of your True Comfort cable as it provides information on the surface covered by the cable. The surface that the cable or the mat can cover must always be equal to or inferior to the total surface of the room that will be heated. The cable must not be cut or modified in any way.
Step 4
Plan the installation layout
Plan the layout of your installation, then use a marker to trace the outlines of the fixed objects directly onto the floor. Plan to have a buffer zone which can accommodate any excess cable. A buffer zone is an area that you don't necessarily need to heat such as behind a toilet, under a hanging fixture or behind a door.
Step 5
Install the cable or mat
Gauges are to be installed with hot glue (glue sticks are included in the box) as your installation progresses. Gauges can also be secured with screws or nails using the area on the gauge provided for this purpose. Skirt around irregular objects in such a way that the gauges outline the shape while being laid perpendicularly to the cable runs. To change direction cut a piece of the gauge. Insert the cable between the gauge's circular clips by pressing lightly while sliding the cable in. Maintain equal tension throughout the installation. Complete the installation by gluing the end of the cable. Never touch the cable with the tip of the glue gun. Cable runs should not exceed 3 meters (10 feet). If they do, change the direction of the run. Cable runs should be stabilized at each meter (3-4 feet) by inserting gauges under the cables and using the hot glue to affix the gauges to the floor. To install a mat, simply unroll it while pressing it down to ensure adhesion to the sub-floor. When you get to the end of a run cut the mesh while being very careful not to cut the cable. Turn the roll to start in the opposite direction.
Step 6
Install the floor probe and fish the cold lead to the connection box
The thermostat's floor probe must be installed in a neutral location, meaning between two heating cables at a distance of 30-60 cm (1-2 feet) inside the heated area, without overlapping the probe wire over heating cables, and away from any other source of heat or cold (e.g. a refrigerator, patio door or hot water pipe). Check the integrity of the probe using an appropriate multimeter. Refer to the thermostat installation guide. Wrap the identification label around the cable and fasten it with electrical tape. Tie the cold lead and the probe wire to a string previously inserted in the wall and pull them through to the connection box. It is important to leave the identification label attached to the cable as required by the electrical code and the warranty.
Step 7
Cover the cables with mortar or self-leveling underlayment
The cables must be completely covered using one of the following methods. Polymer-modified mortar is used when the selected floor covering is ceramic tile or natural stone. With a flat trowel (no teeth or grooves), spread a coat of mortar directly over the cable and gauges (in the same direction as the cable runs) to cover them completely. Let dry. Polymer-modified self-leveling underlayment is used for any other type of floor covering. Apply it with a smooth edge rake, ensuring that the cables are completely covered. Let dry. For all floor surfaces other than natural stone or ceramic tile, cover the cable with a minimum of 8 to 10 mm (1/4" to 3/8") thickness and let dry.
Step 8
Test the cables integrity and connect the thermostat
This procedure includes testing the resistance and insulation. Using an appropriate multimeter test the resistance between the black wires. The result should be within ± 5% of the reference value on the product label. If the difference is greater than that contact customer service. Using a megohmmeter, connect one of the device's cables to the ground cable (green cable) and the other cable to one of the elements (black). Apply a voltage of 1000V. If the read-out is greater than 1000M Ω, the cable is sound. Follow the thermostat instruction guide to complete the connection.
Step 9
Install the floor covering
Before installing the floor covering it is important to respect the curing time (drying time) recommended by the manufacturer of the mortar or the self-leveling underlayment.
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