Louver fencing is a fancy version of standard board fencing. The boards are mounted at an angle to the face of the fence, and because of the angle, they provide nearly as much privacy as a board fence, along with ventilation. The trick to getting a uniform angle from board to board is to put angled spacers between the boards. Ideally use a power miter saw to cut spacers.
BUILD THE STRUCTURE
Install posts and rails. The top rails overlap the posts and are nailed to them. The bottom rails butt into the posts and are supported by small blocks nailed to the posts. Once the rails are installed, measure the exact distance between them and cut fence boards to this length. Set the blade of a power miter saw to 45 degrees. Cut a 45-degree angle on a piece of scrap and clamp it to the saw so it's 2 inches from the blade. (See inset.) Using the board as a stop, butt a 1x4 gently against it and cut the 1x4 to length. Continue cutting: Each section of fence has a triangular spacer at each end and parallelogram-shape spacers between all other boards.
FASTEN THE SPACERS
Drill pilot holes into the spacers to reduce the potential for splitting. Fasten an end spacer to the top and bottom rails with #8 2-inch deck screws. Don't drive the screws all the way in until you have plumbed the first fence board. Butt a board against the end spacers so one edge is flush with the post. Plumb the board with a level and move a spacer, if necessary, to support the board firmly. Fasten the board to the spacer with #8 2-inch deck screws.
PUT IN THE REMAINING BOARDS
Put a parallelogram-shape spacer against the top and bottom of the first picket. Screw the spacers to the rails, then screw the next fence board to the spacers. Continue installing spacers and boards until you reach the next post. Screw the last picket of the section in place. Put two triangular spacers between the post and board (top and bottom), then screw the spacers to the rails.
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Skill Level: Intermediate
Time: 3 hours
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