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While the plan and materials list for this bench may look daunting at first, the instructions are broken up into logical sections and many of the construction techniques and parts repeat. Start work with the straight bench sections to get a feel how the bench goes together. Also important to note is that the bench is designed to back onto a fence. If you want to build the bench so that it is free-standing and the back is visible, add tongue-and-groove siding to the back too.
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| one curved section |
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| Seat boards | cedar | 1in. x 5-1/2in. x 48in. | 4 (trim to fit) |
| Horizontal | PT | 1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 19-1/4in. | 8 |
| Vertical | PT | 1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 11in. | 8 |
Large curved ribs
(inside radius=56in. outside radius=60in.) | PT Ply | 3/4in. x 5in. x 24in. | 4 |
Small curved ribs
(inside radius=40-3/4in. outside radius=44-3/4in.) | PT Ply | 3/4in. x 5in. x 20in. | 4 |
| V-groove siding base | cedar | 3/4in. x 3-1/2in. x 18in. | 9 |
| V-groove siding back | cedar | 3/4in. x 3-1/2in. x 19in. | 13 |
| Back Upright | PT | 1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 36-1/2in. | 4 |
Curved Back Cap
(inside radius=58-1/2in. outside radius=64in.) | cedar | 1-1/2in. x 7-1/2in. x 26in. | 2 |
Curved Back Rib
(inside radius=60in. outside radius=63-1/2in.) |
PT Ply |
3/4in. x 5-1/2in. x 26in. |
4 |
Curved Centre Rib
(inside radius=60in. outside radius=63-1/2in.) |
cedar |
1-1/2in. x 5-1/2in. x 26in. |
2 |
| Cushion |
Sunbrella ® |
3-1/2in. x 21in. x 30in. |
1 (fabricate from pattern) |
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| one straight section |
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| Seat boards |
cedar |
1in. x 5-1/2in. x 30in. |
4 |
| Horizontal |
PT |
1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 19-1/4in. |
6 |
| Vertical |
PT |
1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 11in. |
6 |
| Braces |
PT |
1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 11-3/4in. |
6 |
| V-groove siding base |
cedar |
3/4in. x 3-1/2in. x 18in. |
15 |
| V-groove siding back |
cedar |
3/4in. x 3-1/2in. x 19in. |
9 |
| Back Upright |
cedar |
1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 38in. |
2 |
| Back middle |
PT |
1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 35in. |
1 |
| Back Cap |
cedar |
1-1/2in. x 5-1/2in. x 30in. |
1 |
| Back Frame Top/Bottom |
PT |
1-1/2in. x 3-1/2in. x 26in. |
2 |
| Cushion |
Sunbrella ® |
3-1/2in. x 21in. x 30in. |
1 |
PT=Pressure-treated dimensional lumber
PT Ply = Pressure-treated plywood |
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| Hardware and misc. materials |
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| Ceramic-coated screws |
#8-3in. |
| Stainless steel siding nails |
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| Polyurethane construction adhesive |
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| Paint - Behr Veranda Charm PPF-36 |
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Build the Support frames. The support frames for the bench are built from pressure-treated 2x4s. You'll need to build two straight sections to duplicate the bench shown in the photograph, so double up the parts in the material list. Cut all the horizontal and vertical pieces to length, then, working on a flat surface, assemble the support frames using biscuits and Type II PVA glue at each joint. Clamp the assemblies and set aside to dry. You'll need six support frames in total. Next, cut 12 braces to length using a compound-miter saw. Install these between the support frames using 3-1/2in. ceramic-coated deck screws. Apply a bead of polyurethane construction adhesive at each joint for more strength. |
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Build the Straight Backrest frame. Start by cutting the back uprights, middle, top and bottom members to length. Attach these together using screws and Type II PVA glue to make frames. Run a bead of Polyurethane glue along the edges of the back where they meet the support frames. Bring the back frames and support frames together, clamp and set aside until the glue has cured. The straight bench sections still need the tongue-and-groove cedar and seat boards added, but hold off doing this until the curved bench frames are completed and attached to the straight sections. |
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Cutting corners. The design detail that elevates this bench from an easy, no-trouble project to an advanced weekend warrior undertaking are the curves. Once you've mastered the technique of drawing and cutting accurate curved pieces you'll be on your way to DIY mastery-and the rest of the bench building will sail along smoothly. Here's what you need to know to be curve-conscious. First, make a giant compass: Set a 4x8 sheet of plywood on sawhorses (or a picnic table) to use as a layout surface. The largest radius in this project is 64 inches, so the plywood has lots of breathing room. Now, drive a nail into the surface of the plywood centered on one of the short edges. This is the middle of the imaginary circle and will be the pivot point for drawing all the curves. To complete the compass, loop one end of a piece of non-stretchy string (look for mason's twine) over the nail. To use the oversized compass measure the radius of the curve from the nail and slip the point of pencil through another loop tied at that dimension. Keeping the pencil vertical, swing it from side-to-side with the string kept taught and voilà-a perfect arc. Use the radiuses from the parts list to practice drawing each of the curved pieces onto the plywood. These will serve as templates for the real thing. To make a curved piece, start by cutting a rectangular "blank" to the size shown in the material list. Place the blank on the plywood using your practice lines as a guide. Now mark the curves onto the blank with the pencil and string, using the inside and outside radiuses from the parts list. Cut along the curves using a bandsaw or jigsaw. Leave the pencil lines intact when cutting then smooth the curves out on a stationery belt sander. The cap on the curved bench back is the only curved part that is visible in the final project, so while the accuracy of the finished curved pieces is important-it's not the end of the world if they aren't perfect. |
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Build the Curved Base Sections. Start construction of the curved sections by building the support frames. These are the same as in the straight sections except that they're held together with curved plywood ribs instead of straight 2x4 braces. Lay out the ribs on the plywood using the big compass and cut them out using a bandsaw. Each curved bench section requires six plywood ribs. Before bringing the support frames together with the ribs, notch the support frames so that the ribs lay flush with the top and bottom when attached. Attach the ribs with a couple of 2in. ceramic-coated screws and Type II PVA glue. When the curved base frames are completed attach them together by driving screws through the support frames. Do the same to attach the curved base frames to the straight base frames. |
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Build the Curved Backrest Frame. Cut the back uprights to length then use the big compass again to layout the curved ribs. Cut the ribs to shape as before, and assemble the ribs and uprights together with more glue and screws. Run a bead of polyurethane glue along the inside edge of the back frames where they meet the base support frames then clamp them together. This completes the support frame for the entire bench. Now turn your attention to the tongue-and-groove cedar covering and bench seats. |
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The Big Cover Up. If you haven't done so already, solicit the help of a friend to move the bench to its final location and fasten it to the deck. Start attaching the tongue-and-groove cedar siding at one end. Cut the individual pieces of siding to length and attach the first piece to the support frame using 1-1/2in. galvanized siding nails. Install the siding pieces, driving nails through the tongues only (the next piece hides the nails) until you reach the corner. Measure, mark and rip two lengths of siding and install around the corner. Install the corner pieces so that the seam between them is on the side rather then the face of the bench. Continue attaching the siding along the entire length of the base of the bench, checking that everything remains at 90° every few boards. Take special care attaching the siding to the curved bench sections-it's easy for the boards to go askew here. Once all the base siding is applied follow the same procedure to attach the tongue-and-groove cedar to the backrest. |
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Have a Seat-Soon. Cut all the seat boards to length from 5/4 cedar decking. Rip the first board on the straight sections to 4-1/2in. wide before installing. This ensures that a full board ends up on the outside edge. Test fit the boards first, leaving 1/4in. gap between boards to allow water to drain through and accommodate any seasonal expansion and contraction in the wood. Once satisfied with the fit, attach the boards permanently using screws driven into the underlying frames. Measure and mark the location of the screws carefully. This extra step may seem unnecessary but straight lines of screws make the final project look much better. The best way to fit the boards for the curved bench section is to put them into position and mark the cut lines directly onto the board. Test-fit these boards too, and attach them when you're happy with the spacing. The final step for the seat boards is to cut the curved edge on the front board. To do this, position the board and tack it in place temporarily. Check the overhang on the straight section and cut a small wood spacer the same size as the overhang. Use the spacer and a pencil against the front of the curved bench base to draw a curve on the underside of the front board. Remove the board and use a bandsaw to cut the curve before reinstalling the board permanently on the bench. Finish construction by installing the top caps on the back rests of both the straight and curved sections.
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Cushions. Our bench features custom upholstered cushions on all the seat surfaces. Use the big compass to draw these patterns onto sheets of Kraft paper. Cut the patterns out and test fit them on the seat sections before giving them to the upholsterer.
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Lastly, sand all the surfaces with 150-grit paper and finish the bench with one coat of exterior grade primer and 2 coats of exterior grade latex paint.
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