Due to significant increases in order volumes, some orders may be delayed for both curbside pick-up and delivery. Please wait for your confirmation email or check your order status.Check your order status

Rust-Oleum Specialty Dry Erase Paint Kit In White, 797 mL

Model # 242673|Store SKU # 1000481757

Overview
Specifications
Reviews

Overview

Model # 242673 Store SKU # 1000481757

Rust-Oleum® Dry Erase Paint is a smooth, hard finish that creates a unique white writeable-erasable surface. Once dry, simply use any dry erase markers to draw or write messages and then erase! Application is easy and it has minimal odour making it safe to use indoors. Ideal for use on interior surfaces such as drywall, masonite, wood, cement, metal.

  1. Indoor use only
  1. Great for offices, playrooms, kids rooms and more
  1. Part A and Part B mixes easily and is ready to paint immediately.
  1. Apply to a smooth surface and allow to dry 2 days before applying dry erase markings.

Specifications

Dimensions

Assembled Depth (in inches)
4.33
Assembled Height (in inches)
7.78
Assembled Weight (in lbs)
40.25
Assembled Width (in inches)
4.33
Packaged Depth (in inches)
4.25
Packaged Height (in inches)
7.875
Packaged Weight (In lbs)
5.5
Packaged Width (in inches)
4.25

Details

Colour Family
White
Country of Origin
CA-Canada
Sheen
Gloss

Warranty / Certifications

For questions, concerns and comments regarding Rust-Oleum products, please contact 1-800-387-3625
Specialty Dry Erase Paint Kit In White, 797 mLPhoto of productRust-Oleum® Dry Erase Paint is a smooth, hard finish that creates a unique white writeable-erasable surface. Once dry, simply use any dry erase markers to draw or write messages and then erase! Application is easy and it has minimal odour making it safe to use indoors. Ideal for use on interior surfaces such as drywall, masonite, wood, cement, metal.
Rust-Oleum
1000481757
Specialty Dry Erase Paint Kit In White, 797 mL is rated 2.6 out of 5 by 9.
  • y_2020, m_5, d_23, h_14
  • bvseo_bulk, prod_bvrr, vn_bulk_3.0.8
  • cp_1, bvpage1
  • co_hasreviews, tv_2, tr_7
  • loc_en_CA, sid_1000481757, prod, sort_[SortEntry(order=SUBMISSION_TIME, direction=DESCENDING)]
  • clientName_homedepot-canada
  • bvseo_sdk, java_sdk, bvseo-4.0.0
  • CLOUD, getAggregateRating, 85ms
  • REVIEWS, PRODUCT
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great paint - very specific applicainstructions!!! First timer, and applied 3 cans of this to 100sqft of a mixture of panel board will mud filled in between the panel board creases. Came out better than expected. NOTE!!!! Follow @Tedshrops instructions to a tee, and you won't be disappointed. Couple of additions to Tedshrop's notes: 1. The 1st first coat is really just a quick one. Don't make it heavy. The point of this is to create something where the 2nd first coat will stick. 2. I primed the wall with a Zinsser Primer 1-2-3 and it seemed to help 3. I used 1 can per 33sqft as opposed to 1 can per 50 sqft, and it seemed to work. I ended up with 3-4 coats. Give yourself a few solid uninterrupted hours on this. 4. Markers make a difference. Sometimes, the marker has to be completely dry before you wipe. And for some reason, in my case the blue marker left a little bit of a stain. Can be cleaned with an alcohol solution to take it right off Tedshrops review again: I've seen a lot of bad reviews about the dry erase paint. I feel that most people using the product treat it like paint. It isn't. It's epoxy, or some other kind of two-part resin. I've been extremely happy with the results I've been getting with the dry erase paint. It's much cheaper than buying a board, and the end result is way more fun than a boxed in board hanging on a wall. If applied properly, it functions just as well. In the last 2 weeks, I have put up over 20 boxes of this dry erase paint in an office environment. Admittedly, my first one went up as described by many: things didn't erase properly, not smooth, etc. As i went on, I learned a bit more about this paint and and eventually was able to put up flawless whiteboards with a smooth finish. Follow these steps and you will have a nice finish, and a perfectly functioning surface. PREP: The box says you get a coverage of 7' x 7', about 50 sq. feet. This is true. I was putting up 5' x 10' boards. If you are skeptical about the product, make the area a bit smaller, and do 3 coats in stead of 2. Use a 5mm roller. DO NOT use a foam roller. They make bubbles. Make sure the wall is smooth. Sand it. Tiny bumps will catch the marker and are very noticeable when using the board. 1: Mix the paint - Shake both parts thoroughly. Both have solids that settle on the bottom. - Open both and pour small one into big one. - Close it up again, and shake it thoroughly. You can never shake too much. 2: First coat. - Load the roller up and roll upwards on the first stroke. The paint will run down the wall otherwise. - Cover the area, in the a linear fashion. - Without loading up the roller, go over the entire area again gently, to smooth out the lines left by the roller. 3: (Second) First coat. - This isn't actually the second coat, but more used to build up the first coat before it gets to the right stage of cure. - Wait about 5 - 10 minutes after you have finished the first coat, and then come back in with a semi-loaded roller. - Bring it to a slightly more crisp, even white. Won't be perfect, and won't be very thick, but try and make it even. - Check on this coat as it dries to ensure that nothing starts to run down the wall. Parts put on too thick will start to run. Just even it out with the roller if it does start. 3: Second coat. - The time that this is applied is very crucial. Epoxy-like resins gets to a certain stage where it opens up its molecules and is open to bonds with more exoxy. THIS is what makes the second coat apply thick. If done too early, the paint won't bond, and will run down/be thin. If applied too late, it will be a bit thin, and will not properly bond, making it prone to chipping. Heres how to check: - Touch your finger to a part that you've painted. If you used masking tape, touch a part on the tape. You want the surface to feel tacky, like the backside of a piece of tape, but not wet enough that it gets your finger wet. A little bit of white on your finger is okay, but too much, and it isn't quite ready for the second coat. I usually wait 25-35 minutes from when I completely finish the (2nd) first coat. - If you've touched it and the whiteboard is nicely tacky, you can roll a thick coat over it. Be sure to get full coverage, It's hard to notice when putting white overtop of white. - I recommend going over a few of times without re-loading the roller. Look at it in the light. Get rid of all the little lines and anything stuck to the surface. - Check on it as it dries to a tack, make sure there are no drips, lines, or anything else. Make it nice and even. This is your finished product. You're not painting a wall, you're BUILDING a whiteboard. take your time. Got some paint left? Do a 3rd coat, same deal. Remove any masking tape while the paint is getting to it's final tacky stage. When it's completely cured, it may crack as it comes off, leaving an ugly edge line. I've been very happy with this stuff. Once you know how to do it nicely, it works wonderfully, and gives much more of a fun, creative feel than a chalkboard does. Hope my experience with this product helps somebody, and takes some of the credit away from the negative reviews. The product is wonderful, but the nature of resins makes it a bit of an exact science to apply.
Date published: 2020-05-09
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Absolute Garbage - Do not buy Absolutely Garbage Don't buy it goes on fine but does not allow erasing easily and is not shiny. Do not waist your time. Yes we followed the direction precisely. Now we have two walls to fix.
Date published: 2020-04-06
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Works Fine I've used this product on 2 walls throughout my office and I'm about to put it on a third. I'm happy with the product. You need to take your time and follow what "Tedshrop" says. The only problem I had with the product is that I can only use a blue marker. Any other color stains the board. Thanks for the help "Tedshrop"
Date published: 2014-01-03
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great product... if you know what you're doing. I've seen a lot of bad reviews about the dry erase paint. I feel that most people using the product treat it like paint. It isn't. It's epoxy, or some other kind of two-part resin. I've been extremely happy with the results I've been getting with the dry erase paint. It's much cheaper than buying a board, and the end result is way more fun than a boxed in board hanging on a wall. If applied properly, it functions just as well. In the last 2 weeks, I have put up over 20 boxes of this dry erase paint in an office environment. Admittedly, my first one went up as described by many: things didn't erase properly, not smooth, etc. As i went on, I learned a bit more about this paint and and eventually was able to put up flawless whiteboards with a smooth finish. Follow these steps and you will have a nice finish, and a perfectly functioning surface. PREP: The box says you get a coverage of 7' x 7', about 50 sq. feet. This is true. I was putting up 5' x 10' boards. If you are skeptical about the product, make the area a bit smaller, and do 3 coats in stead of 2. Use a 5mm roller. DO NOT use a foam roller. They make bubbles. Make sure the wall is smooth. Sand it. Tiny bumps will catch the marker and are very noticeable when using the board. 1: Mix the paint - Shake both parts thoroughly. Both have solids that settle on the bottom. - Open both and pour small one into big one. - Close it up again, and shake it thoroughly. You can never shake too much. 2: First coat. - Load the roller up and roll upwards on the first stroke. The paint will run down the wall otherwise. - Cover the area, in the a linear fashion. - Without loading up the roller, go over the entire area again gently, to smooth out the lines left by the roller. 3: (Second) First coat. - This isn't actually the second coat, but more used to build up the first coat before it gets to the right stage of cure. - Wait about 5 - 10 minutes after you have finished the first coat, and then come back in with a semi-loaded roller. - Bring it to a slightly more crisp, even white. Won't be perfect, and won't be very thick, but try and make it even. - Check on this coat as it dries to ensure that nothing starts to run down the wall. Parts put on too thick will start to run. Just even it out with the roller if it does start. 3: Second coat. - The time that this is applied is very crucial. Epoxy-like resins gets to a certain stage where it opens up its molecules and is open to bonds with more exoxy. THIS is what makes the second coat apply thick. If done too early, the paint won't bond, and will run down/be thin. If applied too late, it will be a bit thin, and will not properly bond, making it prone to chipping. Heres how to check: - Touch your finger to a part that you've painted. If you used masking tape, touch a part on the tape. You want the surface to feel tacky, like the backside of a piece of tape, but not wet enough that it gets your finger wet. A little bit of white on your finger is okay, but too much, and it isn't quite ready for the second coat. I usually wait 25-35 minutes from when I completely finish the (2nd) first coat. - If you've touched it and the whiteboard is nicely tacky, you can roll a thick coat over it. Be sure to get full coverage, It's hard to notice when putting white overtop of white. - I recommend going over a few of times without re-loading the roller. Look at it in the light. Get rid of all the little lines and anything stuck to the surface. - Check on it as it dries to a tack, make sure there are no drips, lines, or anything else. Make it nice and even. This is your finished product. You're not painting a wall, you're BUILDING a whiteboard. take your time. Got some paint left? Do a 3rd coat, same deal. Remove any masking tape while the paint is getting to it's final tacky stage. When it's completely cured, it may crack as it comes off, leaving an ugly edge line. I've been very happy with this stuff. Once you know how to do it nicely, it works wonderfully, and gives much more of a fun, creative feel than a chalkboard does. Hope my experience with this product helps somebody, and takes some of the credit away from the negative reviews. The product is wonderful, but the nature of resins makes it a bit of an exact science to apply.
Date published: 2013-08-31
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Does not work on Metal Despite the product packing saying that it works on metal,, this is not the case. Like the other reviewers,I followed the directions exactly as specified,. As soon as I tried to apply the second coat, much of the first coat bubbled and after leaving it for a while, much of the coating actually slid down the surface and pooled at the bottom. Thinking that I did something wrong, I sanded down the surface and prepared it according to the instructions. This time I waited longer between coats, but the result was the same. Perhaps this product works on porous surfaces (such as walls), but I don't recommend trying this product on metal or other non-porous surfaces.
Date published: 2013-04-17
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Very Disappointing! We also followed the instructions exactly, and the result was useless! It didn't work AT ALL!!! My son drew a test picture and when he went to erase it it didn't even smudge! A total waste of money and huge disappointment.
Date published: 2010-04-10
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Good concept, if it worked We followed the directions on the box to a "t" and went to use a dry-erase marker - and it didn't work. Very disappointed. We had a great use planned for it.
Date published: 2009-12-06
  • y_2020, m_5, d_23, h_14
  • bvseo_bulk, prod_bvrr, vn_bulk_3.0.8
  • cp_1, bvpage1
  • co_hasreviews, tv_2, tr_7
  • loc_en_CA, sid_1000481757, prod, sort_[SortEntry(order=SUBMISSION_TIME, direction=DESCENDING)]
  • clientName_homedepot-canada
  • bvseo_sdk, java_sdk, bvseo-4.0.0
  • CLOUD, getReviews, 61ms
  • REVIEWS, PRODUCT

Can I take a framed 2.5'x4' cork board lay it flat and after mixing the whiteboard mixture, pour it as a fill make smooth and let dry to make a whiteboard?

Asked by: AmyD
The Specialty Dry Erase paint will not dry well if poured. For best results, prime the surface first to seal it, then roll two coats of Dry Erase paint onto the primed surface. Ensure the primer has created a smooth surface, so that the finished dry erase board is easy to wipe clean.
Answered by: Rust-Oleum Answers
Date published: 2018-10-25

Dry Erase really work?

I purchased Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Paint (Model: 242673 | Store SKU: 1000481757) from Home Depot Ajax, Ontario Canada. I painted a wall less then 7' by 7' and followed all the instructions as written on the box. 2 days latter whey my daughter tried the dry erase marker on it, results are not good. It did not erase the marker completely and left dark marks. The painted area is not rewritable anymore and could not be cleaned. It did not give me anything but ruining my daughter's room wall.
Asked by: Anonymous
While "ghosting" can occur on any dry erasable surface, an occasional wipe-down with windex, or whiteboard cleaner should restore the surface to a brilliant white. We encourage you to contact the manufacturer with any questions regarding product performance. You can contact Rust-Oleum Canada toll-free at: 1-800-387-3625.
Answered by: Rustoleum
Date published: 2020-04-07

Can this be used with magnetic primer to create a magnetic whiteboard wall surface?

Asked by: Anonymous
We do not recommend the Dry Erase paint be used over our Magnetic Primer because the Dry Erase paint, being a two-part epoxy, is very thick. The thickness of the Dry Erase paint may dull the magnetic finish of the primer. If you wish to create a magnetic, and erasable surface, you could consider using the Magnetic Primer under our Specialty Chalkboard Paint:
Answered by: Rustoleum
Date published: 2020-04-07

Can it be used over an existing Dry Erase Board?

Asked by: Anonymous
This product can be used over an existing white board that has been prepared and primed. First clean the board well, then scuff with sandpaper. Clean again to remove any sanding dust, then prime with a good quality waterbased primer like Zinsser Bulls-Eye 123 before topcoating with the Dry Erase paint.
Answered by: Rustoleum
Date published: 2020-04-07

What is best method to apply, Can it be sprayed.

Asked by: Anonymous
The best tool you can use to apply this product is a dense foam roller designed to give a smooth finish or, for corners that are too tight for a roller, use a foam brush. The Dry Erase paint cannot be thinned, or sprayed.
Answered by: Rustoleum
Date published: 2020-04-07

Can this product be used to paint over a green chalkboard?

Asked by: Anonymous
Yes, this product can be used over a green chalkboard but it is recommended to sand the surface first. I hope this helps.
Answered by: OnlineAssociate
Date published: 2020-04-07

What surfaces work best with this product?

Asked by: Anonymous
This product can be used on any flat vertical surface, for very porous surfaces it is recommended to use Zinsser 1-2-3 first. I hope this helps.
Answered by: OnlineAssociate
Date published: 2020-04-07

Does this product require the surface to be primed before hand?

Asked by: Anonymous
You can if you choose prime the surface first. If you decide to prime it is recommended to use Zinsser 1-2-3 as you will get better results. I hope this helps.
Answered by: OnlineAssociate
Date published: 2020-04-07
  • y_2020, m_5, d_23, h_14CST
  • bvseo_bulk, prod_bvqa, vn_bulk_3.0.8
  • cp_1, bvpage1
  • co_hasquestionsanswers, tq_9
  • loc_en_CA, sid_1000481757, prod, sort_[SortEntry(order=LAST_APPROVED_ANSWER_SUBMISSION_TIME, direction=DESCENDING)]
  • clientName_homedepot-canada
  • bvseo_sdk, java_sdk, bvseo-4.0.0
  • CLOUD, getContent, 89ms
  • QUESTIONS, PRODUCT