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Rust-Oleum Specialty Dry Erase Paint Kit in White, 797 mL

Model # 242673|Store SKU # 1000481757

Overview

Model # 242673 Store SKU # 1000481757

Rust-Oleum® Dry Erase Paint is a smooth, hard finish that creates a unique white writeable-erasable surface. Once dry, simply use any dry erase markers to draw or write messages and then erase! Application is easy and it has minimal odour making it safe to use indoors. Ideal for use on interior surfaces such as drywall, masonite, wood, cement, metal.

  1. Indoor use only
  1. Great for offices, playrooms, kids rooms and more
  1. Part A and Part B mixes easily and is ready to paint immediately.
  1. Apply to a smooth surface and allow to dry 2 days before applying dry erase markings.

Specifications

Dimensions

Assembled Depth (in inches)
4.33
Assembled Height (in inches)
7.78
Assembled Weight (in lbs)
40.25
Assembled Width (in inches)
4.33
Packaged Depth (in inches)
4.25
Packaged Height (in inches)
7.875
Packaged Weight (In lbs)
5.5
Packaged Width (in inches)
4.25

Details

Colour Family
White
Country of Origin
CA-Canada
Sheen
Gloss

Warranty / Certifications

For questions, concerns and comments regarding Rust-Oleum products, please contact 1-800-387-3625
Dry Erase Paint Kit in White, 797 mLRust-Oleum Specialty Dry Erase Paint Kit in White, 797 mLRust-Oleum® Dry Erase Paint is a smooth, hard finish that creates a unique white writeable-erasable surface. Once dry, simply use any dry erase markers to draw or write messages and then erase! Application is easy and it has minimal odour making it safe to use indoors. Ideal for use on interior surfaces such as drywall, masonite, wood, cement, metal.
Rust-Oleum Specialty
1000481757
Dry Erase Paint Kit in White, 797 mL is rated 2.5 out of 5 by 13.
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Rated 1 out of 5 by from Does not work on Metal Despite the product packing saying that it works on metal,, this is not the case. Like the other reviewers,I followed the directions exactly as specified,. As soon as I tried to apply the second coat, much of the first coat bubbled and after leaving it for a while, much of the coating actually slid down the surface and pooled at the bottom. Thinking that I did something wrong, I sanded down the surface and prepared it according to the instructions. This time I waited longer between coats, but the result was the same. Perhaps this product works on porous surfaces (such as walls), but I don't recommend trying this product on metal or other non-porous surfaces.
Date published: 2013-04-17
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great product... if you know what you're doing. I've seen a lot of bad reviews about the dry erase paint. I feel that most people using the product treat it like paint. It isn't. It's epoxy, or some other kind of two-part resin. I've been extremely happy with the results I've been getting with the dry erase paint. It's much cheaper than buying a board, and the end result is way more fun than a boxed in board hanging on a wall. If applied properly, it functions just as well. In the last 2 weeks, I have put up over 20 boxes of this dry erase paint in an office environment. Admittedly, my first one went up as described by many: things didn't erase properly, not smooth, etc. As i went on, I learned a bit more about this paint and and eventually was able to put up flawless whiteboards with a smooth finish. Follow these steps and you will have a nice finish, and a perfectly functioning surface. PREP: The box says you get a coverage of 7' x 7', about 50 sq. feet. This is true. I was putting up 5' x 10' boards. If you are skeptical about the product, make the area a bit smaller, and do 3 coats in stead of 2. Use a 5mm roller. DO NOT use a foam roller. They make bubbles. Make sure the wall is smooth. Sand it. Tiny bumps will catch the marker and are very noticeable when using the board. 1: Mix the paint - Shake both parts thoroughly. Both have solids that settle on the bottom. - Open both and pour small one into big one. - Close it up again, and shake it thoroughly. You can never shake too much. 2: First coat. - Load the roller up and roll upwards on the first stroke. The paint will run down the wall otherwise. - Cover the area, in the a linear fashion. - Without loading up the roller, go over the entire area again gently, to smooth out the lines left by the roller. 3: (Second) First coat. - This isn't actually the second coat, but more used to build up the first coat before it gets to the right stage of cure. - Wait about 5 - 10 minutes after you have finished the first coat, and then come back in with a semi-loaded roller. - Bring it to a slightly more crisp, even white. Won't be perfect, and won't be very thick, but try and make it even. - Check on this coat as it dries to ensure that nothing starts to run down the wall. Parts put on too thick will start to run. Just even it out with the roller if it does start. 3: Second coat. - The time that this is applied is very crucial. Epoxy-like resins gets to a certain stage where it opens up its molecules and is open to bonds with more exoxy. THIS is what makes the second coat apply thick. If done too early, the paint won't bond, and will run down/be thin. If applied too late, it will be a bit thin, and will not properly bond, making it prone to chipping. Heres how to check: - Touch your finger to a part that you've painted. If you used masking tape, touch a part on the tape. You want the surface to feel tacky, like the backside of a piece of tape, but not wet enough that it gets your finger wet. A little bit of white on your finger is okay, but too much, and it isn't quite ready for the second coat. I usually wait 25-35 minutes from when I completely finish the (2nd) first coat. - If you've touched it and the whiteboard is nicely tacky, you can roll a thick coat over it. Be sure to get full coverage, It's hard to notice when putting white overtop of white. - I recommend going over a few of times without re-loading the roller. Look at it in the light. Get rid of all the little lines and anything stuck to the surface. - Check on it as it dries to a tack, make sure there are no drips, lines, or anything else. Make it nice and even. This is your finished product. You're not painting a wall, you're BUILDING a whiteboard. take your time. Got some paint left? Do a 3rd coat, same deal. Remove any masking tape while the paint is getting to it's final tacky stage. When it's completely cured, it may crack as it comes off, leaving an ugly edge line. I've been very happy with this stuff. Once you know how to do it nicely, it works wonderfully, and gives much more of a fun, creative feel than a chalkboard does. Hope my experience with this product helps somebody, and takes some of the credit away from the negative reviews. The product is wonderful, but the nature of resins makes it a bit of an exact science to apply.
Date published: 2013-08-31
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great paint - very specific applicainstructions!!! First timer, and applied 3 cans of this to 100sqft of a mixture of panel board will mud filled in between the panel board creases. Came out better than expected. NOTE!!!! Follow @Tedshrops instructions to a tee, and you won't be disappointed. Couple of additions to Tedshrop's notes: 1. The 1st first coat is really just a quick one. Don't make it heavy. The point of this is to create something where the 2nd first coat will stick. 2. I primed the wall with a Zinsser Primer 1-2-3 and it seemed to help 3. I used 1 can per 33sqft as opposed to 1 can per 50 sqft, and it seemed to work. I ended up with 3-4 coats. Give yourself a few solid uninterrupted hours on this. 4. Markers make a difference. Sometimes, the marker has to be completely dry before you wipe. And for some reason, in my case the blue marker left a little bit of a stain. Can be cleaned with an alcohol solution to take it right off Tedshrops review again: I've seen a lot of bad reviews about the dry erase paint. I feel that most people using the product treat it like paint. It isn't. It's epoxy, or some other kind of two-part resin. I've been extremely happy with the results I've been getting with the dry erase paint. It's much cheaper than buying a board, and the end result is way more fun than a boxed in board hanging on a wall. If applied properly, it functions just as well. In the last 2 weeks, I have put up over 20 boxes of this dry erase paint in an office environment. Admittedly, my first one went up as described by many: things didn't erase properly, not smooth, etc. As i went on, I learned a bit more about this paint and and eventually was able to put up flawless whiteboards with a smooth finish. Follow these steps and you will have a nice finish, and a perfectly functioning surface. PREP: The box says you get a coverage of 7' x 7', about 50 sq. feet. This is true. I was putting up 5' x 10' boards. If you are skeptical about the product, make the area a bit smaller, and do 3 coats in stead of 2. Use a 5mm roller. DO NOT use a foam roller. They make bubbles. Make sure the wall is smooth. Sand it. Tiny bumps will catch the marker and are very noticeable when using the board. 1: Mix the paint - Shake both parts thoroughly. Both have solids that settle on the bottom. - Open both and pour small one into big one. - Close it up again, and shake it thoroughly. You can never shake too much. 2: First coat. - Load the roller up and roll upwards on the first stroke. The paint will run down the wall otherwise. - Cover the area, in the a linear fashion. - Without loading up the roller, go over the entire area again gently, to smooth out the lines left by the roller. 3: (Second) First coat. - This isn't actually the second coat, but more used to build up the first coat before it gets to the right stage of cure. - Wait about 5 - 10 minutes after you have finished the first coat, and then come back in with a semi-loaded roller. - Bring it to a slightly more crisp, even white. Won't be perfect, and won't be very thick, but try and make it even. - Check on this coat as it dries to ensure that nothing starts to run down the wall. Parts put on too thick will start to run. Just even it out with the roller if it does start. 3: Second coat. - The time that this is applied is very crucial. Epoxy-like resins gets to a certain stage where it opens up its molecules and is open to bonds with more exoxy. THIS is what makes the second coat apply thick. If done too early, the paint won't bond, and will run down/be thin. If applied too late, it will be a bit thin, and will not properly bond, making it prone to chipping. Heres how to check: - Touch your finger to a part that you've painted. If you used masking tape, touch a part on the tape. You want the surface to feel tacky, like the backside of a piece of tape, but not wet enough that it gets your finger wet. A little bit of white on your finger is okay, but too much, and it isn't quite ready for the second coat. I usually wait 25-35 minutes from when I completely finish the (2nd) first coat. - If you've touched it and the whiteboard is nicely tacky, you can roll a thick coat over it. Be sure to get full coverage, It's hard to notice when putting white overtop of white. - I recommend going over a few of times without re-loading the roller. Look at it in the light. Get rid of all the little lines and anything stuck to the surface. - Check on it as it dries to a tack, make sure there are no drips, lines, or anything else. Make it nice and even. This is your finished product. You're not painting a wall, you're BUILDING a whiteboard. take your time. Got some paint left? Do a 3rd coat, same deal. Remove any masking tape while the paint is getting to it's final tacky stage. When it's completely cured, it may crack as it comes off, leaving an ugly edge line. I've been very happy with this stuff. Once you know how to do it nicely, it works wonderfully, and gives much more of a fun, creative feel than a chalkboard does. Hope my experience with this product helps somebody, and takes some of the credit away from the negative reviews. The product is wonderful, but the nature of resins makes it a bit of an exact science to apply.
Date published: 2020-05-09
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Works Fine I've used this product on 2 walls throughout my office and I'm about to put it on a third. I'm happy with the product. You need to take your time and follow what "Tedshrop" says. The only problem I had with the product is that I can only use a blue marker. Any other color stains the board. Thanks for the help "Tedshrop"
Date published: 2014-01-03
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Good concept, if it worked We followed the directions on the box to a "t" and went to use a dry-erase marker - and it didn't work. Very disappointed. We had a great use planned for it.
Date published: 2009-12-06
Rated 2 out of 5 by from Waaaay Over Priced Followed the instructions to a “T”. Even primed with Zinser 123, put on FOUR coats. You can still see the original material underneath. It looks awful. I would have done a 5th coat, but the directions said to use within one hour of mixing. Not impressed - would not recommend.
Date published: 2020-09-03
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Absolute Garbage - Do not buy Absolutely Garbage Don't buy it goes on fine but does not allow erasing easily and is not shiny. Do not waist your time. Yes we followed the direction precisely. Now we have two walls to fix.
Date published: 2020-04-06
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Pretty bad I bought this a couple months ago and finally got around to applying it today. I followed the instructions to a T, prepped well and had the right foam roller (or so I thought). The paint applies like stucco, it's really awful. Luckily I had another roller for smooth finishes that I ended up using to smear the paint I applied with the foam roller and it looked passable. Had horizontal streaking still but at least it wasn't stucco and mostly looked like a useable surface. The final coat didn't go on properly tho and my smear tactic started leading to clumping. *Almost* got it working... Going to have to scrape it off and either try again or find a better product. The instructions should be clearer about how to apply optimally. Recommend specific roller brands or models would be good. The box had an inch of dust on it when I bought it so I suppose I got what I deserved... Need to take a hint next time.
Date published: 2022-07-10
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