DIY Dining Table

DIY Oak Wood Dining Table in a room featuring white walls, large windows and natural lighting with a view to the outside.

Building a large DIY dining table for six or more can be done quite easily with some basic carpenter tools, wood glue, and a little know-how.

Throughout this woodworking project, we’ll show you how to measure, cut and assemble a large dining table or kitchen table that can seat 4 – 6 people comfortably. For our inspiration, we’ve chosen the slender, rustic yet modern looking Four Hands Mika Dining Table.

Oak is a great choice because it’s dense, highly durable, and needs minimal sanding to finish it. The braces, angled cuts, and a long stringer across the length give the tabletop all the support it needs. We’ve opted for square legs instead of cylindric, but the choice is purely aesthetic. Feel free to follow our example or go with your own!

Ultimately, the key to completing your DIY kitchen table or dining table is making sure your measurements are accurate. With that in mind, take a look at an overview of the steps and tools you’ll need before you begin.

Skill Level: Beginner
Time:
  1. Step 1 Measure and Cut the Top Boards

    Carpenter in workshop measures oak dining table top with pencil and T-square ruler.

    Your first step should be measuring and cutting the top board, the largest piece to construct. Adequate space is essential. For this table, you’ll need the following measurements:

    Seven 1" x 6" x 8' Oak Boards: cut at 72 inches in length.

  2. Step 2 Secure the Top Boards Together

    Carpenter in a workshop presses tabletop boards together with wood glue and a clamp.

    To secure the top boards together, we suggest you use a biscuit joiner and wood glue. Gorilla Wood Glue is a great choice for this task. 

    Using 5 biscuits, space each of them 1 foot apart and position them 4 inches inset from each end. You can measure and draw the lines in with a pencil to ensure greater accuracy. Next, apply a thin line of wood glue along the edge of each top board. Press them together carefully one at a time, using a clamp on either end to ensure a tight fit. There should be no space between the seams of each board.

    Some of the glue will inevitably leak out onto the table surface as you press the boards together, but not to worry. You can easily sand the excess away once it’s completely dry.

    Allow at least 24 hours for the wood glue to completely dry. As mentioned, you can then sand down the surface to remove any defects.

  3. Step 3 Cut the Wood for the Base

    Male hands use a power saw to cut wooden planks laid across a work table.

    The base supports the dining tabletop and determines the standing height of your final product, so it needs to be accurately cut and measured.

    Use a power saw to cut the pieces you’ll need for the base, legs, stringers, and bottom braces as follows:

    Cut list:

    Six 2" x 2" x 3' Square Oak Boards

    • Four 29 ¼-inch Legs
    • Two 29 ½-inch Bottom Braces

    Three 1" x 3" x 8' Oak Boards

    • Two 57-inch Long Sides
    • Two 29 ½-inch Short Sides

    Three 1" x 2" x 8' Oak Boards

    • Two 57-inch Long Stringers
    • Four 38-inch Angled Pieces
  4. Step 4 Build the Base and Attach the Legs

    Wood pieces for a table frame are laid out on the floor of a workshop. A carpenter kneels partly in view to complete the assembly.

    Since the legs will attach to the base of your DIY dining table (not the tabletop) you’ll need to build the base first, using some wood glue, a power drill, screws:

    Begin building the base by first centering the first two legs on the long side using a 3/8-inch spacer underneath.

    Once the legs are centred, you can drill two pocket holes at each joint with a brad point.

    Next, you’ll want to glue the joints together, then screw in the two pocket holes for added stability.

    Finally, repeat the same process for the other side of the table.

    To ensure your base is square, apply clamps to clamp your base together. For added stability, use two pocket holes on each joint as well as wood glue.

    Once you’ve completed this process, simply screw the small sides to the legs for your table base.

  5. Step 5 Attach the Lower Braces

    A lower brace is added to the table.

    Attaching a lower brace adds further support to your dining table by strengthening the base. To attach the lower brace, you’ll first need to turn the table base over with the legs facing upward. The pocket holes, placed on the underside, should not be visible in this position.

    With the table base flipped over, you’ll be able to clamp the braces easily into place (one on each short side).

  6. Step 6 Attach the Long Stringer

    A male carpenter measures a long stringer attached to a wooden table base that has been flipped over.

    Another form of support you’ll need for your DIY dining table is the long stringer, a long beam placed that attaches to each of the braces underneath.

    Since oak planks aren’t available in 2x2 inches longer than 3 feet, you’ll need to join two pieces together for one long piece. It should be little trouble to brad nail and glue them together.

    Once you’ve completed the construction of the stringer, you can screw it onto the two lower braces.

  7. Step 7 Install the Angled Cuts

    Male hands install an angled cut of wood to a wooden table base

    Installing angled cuts on your DIY dining table isn’t essential, so feel free to skip to the next step if you’ve never worked with them before.

    For the dimensions of this table, you’ll need to laminate 2 angle pieces together, similar to the long brace. Then, cut them at 37 inches each.

  8. Step 8 Finish and Stain the Wood

    Stain is applied to the wood.

    The final step is finishing and staining your DIY dining table. First, you’ll want to sand the tabletop surface to remove any glue residue before staining the wood. When choosing a stain be sure to use a quality brand such as Varathane, Behr or Watco. If your dining table is going to be used outdoors, apply an oil-based wood stain for lasting protection against the elements.

This article was published in partnership with Jessica Sara Morris

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